Barham, NSW

Quietness on the banks of the Murray River among giant ancient red gums.

Ratings: CP *** Surroundings ***

Rolling dampness as morning mists envelop the river and sunlight begins to penetrate the blanket.

Robinvale, Victoria

Ratings: CP *** Surroundings ***

The mighty Murray River with its majestic river red gums, some as old as 700 years, bearing traces of territorial markings and oval shapes cut into the bark by the Aboriginal people before settlers arrived. These shapes were cut and used to make canoes and shields. Bumbang Island opposite has numerous Aboriginal heritage sites which include scar trees, middens and burial sites. The roots of red gums are covered by waters during times of flood and become web-like labyrinths above the banks once waters have subsided....magical!

Greetings, Captain John Egge! He came from China and was one of the 'river people' working on river boats from 1854. He became one of the biggest boat owners on the Murray Darling and owned many businesses but was apparently also very generous to those in need. Bollards along the river between Swan Hill and Robinvale were decorated by local artists in 2003 to commemorate the 150 year anniversary of paddle steamers on the Murray. Robinvale is a multicultural enclave of 22 nationalities due to seasonal work such as fruit and almond picking. The population varies and is thought to be between 8000 and 10000 people.

The alluring woodcutter and I, both intense it seems! Paddle steamers burnt half a ton of dry red gum per hour and woodcutters who lived beside the river, carted their woodpiles with horse and cart. Boat captains left notes saying what they had taken and paid later.

Mildura, Victoria (Buronga, NSW)

On the banks of the magnificent Murray River at Mildura. A variety of water birds hoping for some lunch left overs while a houseboat passes by. Across the water is our campsite which falls in Buronga, New South Wales. The Mildura region  grows almost all of Australia's dried vine fruit and most of its table grapes and almonds.

Ratings: CP **** Surroundings ***

Sipping wine on the banks of the Murray looking towards Mildura in Victoria as the sun begins to set!

Looking down the river from a bridge joining Victoria and New South Wales. House boats, which have replaced paddle steamers, are anchored in many towns along the river and can be hired.

The Darling River is Australia's longest river (2740 km) and merges with the mighty Murray River at Wentworth, the oldest town in the region. The town used to bustle with river trade in the 1880s and was Australia's busiest inland port. While the Murray depends on winter rains and snow thaw for its existence, the Darling River relies on summer monsoon rain feeding its tributaries west of the Great Divide.

Pack-up time!

Lake Bonney, Barmera, SA

Ratings: CP **** Surroundings *****

The sun sets over Lake Bonney in the Riverland and pelicans search for their dinner. Imagine this serenity interrupted as speed record breaker, Donald Campbell, attempted to break the World Water Speed Record here in 1964! The town is named after the Barmera Aboriginal people that lived on the shores of Lake Bonney. It lies in the centre of a fruit fly exclusion zone where growers try to ensure that their crops of citrus, grapes and other fruit and vegetables aren't decimated by the pest.
The Murray River is primarily used for irrigation and aquatic sports and is the second longest river in Australia. It has a surprising number of locks (around 14) which were built originally for the paddle steamers.  A system of weirs now controls the water flow to ensure maximum water usage for irrigation purposes. Rising in the Australian Alps, it makes its journey to the ocean at Goolwa, South Australia, and is 2530 kilometres long. Concern about the health of the river has resulted in numerous projects aimed at restoring it.

A lone explorer uses a pedal boat to share the water environment with the abundant bird life and elusive fish of Lake Bonney!

A ferry carrying cars and people back and forth across the River Murray at Waikerie.

An interloper sneaks onto the historic paddle steamer, PS Industry in Renmark when no one is watching! Renmark is Australia's first irrigation settlement and was founded in 1887.

Burra, SA

Ratings: CP ** Surroundings **

Looking down on Monster mine which is filled with about 50 metres of water. This was one of the world's major copper mines which operated between 1845, when Burra was founded, until 1877. After the mine closed, it became  South Australia's main centre for the sale of sheep in the late 19th century. The mine operated again from 1970-1981. Today it is a popular tourist town due to its mining heritage.

Miners' quarters stretch along two streets and a courtyard lies between them where miners used to meet. The rooms can be rented by people visiting Burra and wanting to know more about its mining history.

Hawker, SA

Ratings: CP ** Surroundings ****

Wedge-tailed Eagle on the road to Wilpena Pound

Good morning!  The rising sun in the east imbues the ranges in the west with soft hues of pink as we gaze out from our camp site in this semi-arid region. Hawker was established in 1880 and the area produced wheat until drought forced farmers into sheep farming or bankruptcy. Others merely left to begin again elsewhere.  However it is home to Jeff Morgan, an artist of some repute who, in addition to his unique and detailed Flinders Ranges landscapes, has painted a panoramic view of Wilpena Pound on canvas which is housed in a purpose built cylindrical building open to the public.

Ancient and dramatic rock formations form shadows and surprising colours as the light changes.

A meandering road leads to layer upon layer of rock exposed over time.

Inside "Ikara", the local Adnyamanthanha peoples' name for Wilpena Pound in the Flinders Ranges National Park. It is a natural rock formation from millions of years of erosion and was seen by settlers as an ideal enclosure for stock with a natural water supply and only one access point. We followed Wilpena Creek and reached the Hill's homestead.  The Hill family leased the Pound from 1900 to 1921.  Jessie Hill, a daughter of this pioneer family, tells her touching story on signs titled "If walls could talk".

The awe inspiring surrounds of Wilpena Pound providing an environment where bird life and tawny dragons thrive while the yellow footed rock wallaby is under threat due to feral goats devouring their food!

Quorn, SA

Our bush campsite amongst the majestic red gums of an environmentally sustainable caravan park where we awoke to birdsong each morning. The lack of rain in this very dry region meant that a shower of no more than 3 minutes was encouraged!
Ratings: CP ** Surroundings **

Quorn was proclaimed in 1878. It is steeped in history and has some beautiful and well preserved buildings which include these hotels opposite Quorn railway station. Farming began in 1875 and today meat and wool are the main products. The lands of the Ngadjuri people lies to the south and the Adnyamathanha people to the north. The territories of some bird species such as the Port Lincoln ringneck and Mallee ringneck also meet here.

End of the line.  Quorn is home to the Pichi Richi railway which follows a section of the old Ghan railway line through the Pichi Richi Pass and operates over weekends and public holidays between Port Augusta and Quorn.  Carriages are usually drawn by an old steam engine although a diesel engine is sometimes used during the peak seasons.